First timer looking for feedback

Questions about trails and campsites on the island.

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Careisin
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First timer looking for feedback

Post by Careisin »

Isle Royale has been something I've wanted to do for several decades and I'm so excited to finally make it a reality this summer. I've tried doing all my research, but would love to hear any advice from seasoned veterans.

I'll be doing the Greenstone Trail June 22-27. I'll be leaving from Grand Portage taking the Voyager II to get me to Windigo and then from RH back GP. I know black flies will be out. I have some pants that I use rock climbing because of the stretch, wicking, and lightness of them. I'll have arm covers and a head net.

Itinerary:
Saturday: land in Windigo, hike to Island Mine (6.6 mi)
Sunday: Island Mine to Hatchet Lake (13 mi)
Monday: Hatchet Lake to E Chickenbone (9.3mi)
Tuesday: E. Chickenbone to Three mile (10.5)
Wednesday: Three Mile to Rock Harber and the Scollville Loop (8.6)
Thursday: Wake up and ferry back to GP

I know this is an ambitious itinerary. I'm trying to list out contingencies. If I'm doing well on Saturday (day 1), I might try to make it to S Desor to even out the miles between day 1 and 2 or in case the weather looks like it will be bad on Sunday. I can also eliminate the Scollville loop if I'm not making the progress I want. I have been training since October and feel like this is within my physical capabilities and offers a challange.

I think my biggest concern is that I feel like the schedule of arriving and leaving on the ferries is pretty rigid. I'm trying to make it back in time because I'll have my kids that weekend and if my ferry gets delayed because of weather, I won't make it back home in time. Which I guess is just a risk, I'll have to take.

Anything I'm not considering before I book my ferry?
Last edited by Careisin on Wed Apr 03, 2024 2:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: First timer looking for feedback

Post by dcclark »

Definitely reserve your spot on the ferry soon. It fills up fast! In general, if you're certain you can handle the distances, this will be fine. But, have you tried these distances, with weight, on similar terrain?

Some edits: If you stick with Island Mine and East Chickenbone, you'll be getting a tour of the least-loved campgrounds on the island. I recommend making S. Desor your default plan on Day 1, with the option to ditch at Island Mine if you're running late or having trouble. East Chickenbone is the least popular campsite on the island, with good reason. It's on an exposed ridge high above the lake, with little shelter and a long walk to get water. I'd suggest aiming for West Chickenbone instead (at the cost of a longer next day), or Lake Richie (nearly the same distance).

But instead of any of that, I'd really recommend changing your whole plan. Is there a reason you want to hike the Greenstone? The most interesting parts of the island are basically all somewhere else, and most of the Greenstone is a tunnel of trees until you're on the far east end. You really do miss out on the best parts by sticking to the ridge.

So, since you haven't made reservations yet, you could consider doing the Feldtmann Lake loop and adding on Hugginin Cove if you have time. Those are excellent west end loops that give you a good sense of the island, without being stuck in the trees all day. That would also let you arrive and depart from Windigo.
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Re: First timer looking for feedback

Post by Ingo »

I second dcclark. The Feldtmann Loop is a great hike for that amount of time, and optionally add Huginnin Cove at the end. And I am in the minority I guess and had a lovely evening at Island Mine, although it was a bit earlier--if the trees haven't fully leaved out it's got a nice open feeling.
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Re: First timer looking for feedback

Post by Careisin »

I appreciate the feedback. Yes, I have been training with those distances and with weight on my back. I'll definitely look at going to W Chickenbone vs. East.

I've had my heart set on the Greenstone. I'd really like to add having traversed the length of the largest island in the largest lake in the world as one my accomplishments. I'd like to make it back there someday and I might add Feldtmann loop to my next trip. Logistically sticking to one side of the island will be easier.
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Re: First timer looking for feedback

Post by Backpacker534 »

I agree with everything dcclark said; ships fill up fast, mileage is good as long as you've done those mileages with weight, and the Greenstone's nice views are more toward the middle (fire tower) and east (Mount Franklin) but otherwise... meh.

I have hiked the entire length of the Greenstone and the Minong and many of the other shorter and connecting trails. I stayed at East Chickenbone and agree with dcclark, again. That site was my least favorite of every site I have stayed at. I have never stayed at Island Mine but have hiked past it a couple of times and stopped there for lunch once, but I have no desire to stay there.

As for his suggestion regarding the Feldtmann Loop and Huginnin Cove, I give it two thumbs up. I hiked the loop four times and stayed at Huginnin Cove twice, with the most recent being last May with two of my friends.

The Feldtmann Loop has some of the nicest scenery on the island, in my opinion. And, Huginnin Cove is my favorite campsite on the island.

If you have your heart set on your planned itinerary, then at least keep the Feldtmann Loop and Huginnin Cove in mind for a future trip... it will not disappoint.

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Re: First timer looking for feedback

Post by torpified »

More or less that itinerary, at more or less that time of year, was my first trip---I also felt the pull of walking across the island, and the Greenstone Ridge looms large in wide-angle accounts of options.

I loved it. I also agree that stretches of its western half *are* a tunnel of trees. You'll be so excited to be walking across Isle Royale that you won't care. And even if you did care, you wouldn't care for long: the trail's eastern stretches, especially the uninterrupted open ridge walking that starts around the Daisy Farm junction, are incredible. The direction you'd be walking, you're saving the best for last. Tunnel of trees or no, it'll inspire you to come back for more.

Whatever you wind up doing, be prepared for the incessant daylight you'll encounter at those latitudes that close to the solstice. An eye-mask equivalent (I just use a buff I've taken care NOT to soak in DEET) can help a lot of you plan to sleep for more than the handful of hours it's actually dark!
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Re: First timer looking for feedback

Post by HoosierHiker1202 »

My first backpacking trip ever was almost exactly as you're planning, in late June 2021. Like you, I tried for almost a year (two, really, thanks to COVID...). I was 43 and reasonably fit. I found the trip to very manageable. I also thought it was amazing. In fact, so much so that I returned the next year to be a part of the Moosewatch for Educators program. As Torpified points out, heading in the direction you are, you'll see the payoff soon enough. The second half of the trip is great, and the first half is still exciting because the island is magical. As for East Chickenbone, I would say it's fine. It's a place to sleep in peace. It may not be as scenic as other sites, but it probably beats any night on the mainland.

Enjoy your trip. Can't wait to read about it when you're done.
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Re: First timer looking for feedback

Post by Ingo »

Careisin wrote: Wed Apr 03, 2024 2:35 pm I've had my heart set on the Greenstone.
You can't argue with your heart! You'll have a great trip, I'm sure.
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