May 2009 itinerary (first paddle of IR!)

[moss13]

Yes, 3 portages to Richie is much better than going on the long Indian Portage Trail from W. Chickenbone to Richie. No sense in doing that when you can shorten up the overall portage by paddling lakes in this order. W. Chickenbone to the short .2 portage trail to Lake Livermore, then catch the portge trail on the west end of Livermore. Portage to west end of Lake LeSage, paddle to south end of LeSage to .6 portage trail to Richie. In my opinion it would be a shame to go on a canoe trip and not paddle Lakes Livermore and LeSage on the way to Richie. Those smaller lakes sure can be gems to paddle on. Just so you know, if you do decide to bypass Livermore and LeSage by portaging the whole length from W. Chickenbone to Richie, you are talking about a 4 mile portage and in canoe terms, that is just downright NASTY! Plus that would be a 4 mile portage if you SINGLE portage. Most people double portage their gear as it is much safer and not as hard as trying to carry ALL your gear plus the canoe in one shot. So the downside of double portaging is you would have to take the portage length and multiply it by 3. For example the first trip would be carrying your pack, food, paddles and fishing gear, so 4 miles from chickenbone to Richie. Then you walk back the 4 miles empty handed to get the canoe and whatever else you may have. Then you portage back to Richie with the canoe, etc, so in reality you are portaging 12 miles from chickenbone to richie. OUCH!!!! Now with a larger group like you have going, you may just be able to pull it off by single portaging, but single portaging is not an easy thing to do.

So whenever you have the opportunity to paddle instead of portaging, by all means take the paddling routes to shave off portaging distance! It is much more scenic too!

Hope this helps and did not confuse you more.

[Kevinl]

By all means, go through Livermore and LeSage. You can throw your boats from Chickenbone to that first lake. The trail to Richie is hard enough. Enjoy.

[head2north]

I consider the inlake lake paddle route to be a destination within the destination - if that makes any sense!

I did this trip in June and August last year and will be absorbing again with my father the week after you in June. Yes, it is the best kept secret for any Boundary Waters/Isle Royale Nut.

If it is your first time on this route, I can understand why you would like to overnight at all the campsites. With the intermediate lake in mind, I have never stayed there while i have explored, but probably will never overnight there and will not recommend an overnight there. Lake Richie Canoe site is secluded enough and Siskiwit/Wood is worth even a backcountry bushwacking from Superior. To sum it, take a look but bypass and stay at Richie or Wood for an extra night.

Get up early on Wood and relax on Rocks. You might see a Moose swimming across Wood lake - saw a Bull Moose huffing and puffing last August in the still of early morning fog.

Whittlesey is my 2nd favorite after Wood Lake. There is a sandy beach on the 3rd campsite and the entire camping area is surrounded by Birch. Also I highly recommend paddling over to River connecting to Lake Dustin. Take a hike over the ridge to Lake Dustin and Greenstone Beach area. Worth It!!!!!!!!!

And of course the fishing is excellent on Chickenbone, Richie, Siskiwit, and Whittlesey. Early enough to catch some Lakeres on Siskiwit in the shallows with some spoons.

[fonixmunkee]

All your feedback is absolutely phenomenal, and we're looking at assimulating all of your inputs (especially re: Livermore and Lesage).

head2north: your reviews of what sites are the best is also exactly what we're looking for. Glad we picked a good route (since you like it so much!). And it'll be our secret!

[Kevinl]

I agree with everything head2north said. I too would bypass Intermediate. I've done this trip once solo and last year with my dad. It is my favorite way to see the island. Here's my trip report from last year. Link to pics too. Scroll down for my portage descriptions.

My favorite campgrounds were Whittlesey, Wood, and Richie Canoe.

http://www.isleroyaleforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=355

[fonixmunkee]

Bad news kids...our paddle trip is off It got too expensive for those of us who don't own canoes (that's all of us)

It'd be $45/day from Bear trek (paw?) outfitters in Grand Marais for a kevlar, times two canoes, plus fees to bring the boats to and fro the island. So we decided it's not worth it, since that amount of money could be a good down payment on a nice kevlar canoe

So instead we'll be going in at McCargoe, heading to Todd Harbor, then to Desor, then to Malone Bay...since Malone bay is the only place we have NOT been on the island (besides paddle sites, of course). A little sad we don't get to paddle, but what are you going to do? Pretty stoked to see Malone Bay for the first time, and Tod Harbor is always awesome.

Heading out on the VII from Grand Portage on 3 June, coming back from Malone on 7 June. Anyone going to be around at that time?

[Ingo]

I know what you mean about the cost, Fonix, since I've rented canoes for 3 trips. Too bad it didn't work out though. Sounds like prices have gone up a little since I last got up there. Happy hoofing it

[moss13]

Sorry to hear that Fonix. I can understand that. You are still going though so that is a good thing. Happy Hiking!

[Keweenaw]

Hey Fonix,

Yeah, too bad, but that sounds like it would be pushing $500 and you don't even get to keep the canoes.

It's great you're getting to Malone. We backpacked in there once and got picked up by the Voyager (it's a bit of a long spur trail to hike in and then out again). Be sure to post afterward and let us know if anyone in your party gets freaked by the boardwalk around the head of Siskiwit. I have a bit of a thing about heights at times and it was a tough stretch for me - very long, mostly one board wide, no handrails and maybe 3+ feet or so above water of indeterminable depth (while wearing 45 pounds on my back). I found that chanting "om mani padmi om" helped a little. I thought about just closing my eyes, but didn't think that would work out.

Bob

[Kevinl]

Bummer. Understandable issue. As I don't have a trip planned there yet for this year, I was getting excited for you. Living it vicariously. Hope you have a great time backpacking.

[fonixmunkee]

Well, nothing like waiting 'til the last minute.

I'm leaving now for IR...staying in Grand Portage tonight and catching the VII in the morning. It appears our itinerary is now staying in McCargo wednesday night (one guy has never been to McCargoe or the mines around the area!), then hiking to Tod Harbor Thursday, then to Hatchet on Friday, and finally to Malone Bay on Saturday (which none of us have been too).

I'm off, I shall return. Thanks to all for your feedback, however, because it's proven valuable for my next trip...in which I *will* paddle.

[fonixmunkee]

Just walked in the door from my IR trip. Short but sweet, and painfully beautiful...made me want to ask Capt Mike and Capt Don to write me an excuse letter so I could stay out there and not have to come back to work this week.

A (uneventful) trip report and pictures will be up soon.

[moss13]

Welcome back fonix! Look forward to some pics and report.