New to this forum and new to the idea of backpacking IR!! I have some experience packing into the BWCA.. But that's it... I would love to experience IR with my husband and 12 year old son!!! We love hiking, adventure and camping so this excursion seems like a perfect fit!!!
Of course the appeal of possibly hearing or even seeing a wolf(slim chances I know)... Is even more exciting!!!
When planning our trip I would love to keep this in mind? There must be certain areas or spots where the wolves are more likely to congregate?
Would love to plan a backpacking trip from the west side of the island to the east... 5-6 days? With hopefully the best chance at spotting a wolf thinking end of August?
The official count right now is 9 (6 in the chippewa harbor pack; 2 in the west end of the park, that mated last winter and may have had pups, but that will not be known until the research team makes their observations from jan15-march 6; and one loner). 9 wolves in 210 square miles of park. Chances are better than finding a needle in a haystack though, at least of hearing a member of the chippewa pack (not sure if a full moon helps!).
The research team never divulges the location of dens, and they are the only ones lucky enough to see (from their small plane) wolves congregate on a snow-covered lake or asleep after a moose kill or waiting on an injured moose.
It's only an educated guess but i would say lake richie and moskey basin are good places to possibly hear a chippewa pack wolf at night. The individual tentsites at Richie, though, are pretty uneven ground, so a good mattress is key. I think its ok to set up on a group site at Richie, but it would have to be quite late in the day, realizing that u risk forfeiting the site if a group does arrive late, but that is unlikely.
Researcher john vucetich of michigan tech has a blog during the winter research study, so u could check that out to see if the west end pair successfully raised pups. Wolves hunt mostly at night so u might catch a short glimpse of one crossing the trail ahead of u, if u happen to be out on the trails at dusk. But chances are very slim. I think they can smell us 1/4 mile away, and that's after we've showered, which of course is another rare event at isle royale!!
There is also 675 moose in the park. These moose know nothing of roads, cars or highway littering. From halloween to tax day, they inhabit the island without any real human presence to speak of, which is pretty cool. I'm sure they would use the word "sweet" or the equivalent in moose jargon.
I think the best thing about isle royale is that this wilderness oasis makes us take off the mask that we all feel the need to wear to survive in the dog-eat-dog real world. However brief your stay, u might say that it is a utopian gathering of like-minded nature enthusiasts (backpackers&paddlers). I'm not sure if that includes the moose.
Last edited by bergman on Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
I have solo hiked on the island the last three years. Last year I was trekking from Rock Harbor to Windigo via the Greenstone in May. I was surprised by the amount of wolf scat that was on the trail. I was camping at South Lake Desor and was jolted from a sound sleep around midnight by howling wolves. They sounded like they were so close, but I’m sure they were quite a distance away. The howl initially was loud, and then it echoed into the distance. It was awesome. Probably 10 minutes later, a thunderstorm rolled in and I didn’t sleep the rest of the night.
I’ve had really good luck seeing moose at Washington Creek. That is an incredible sight as well. My first year, I saw a mom and her twins in the creek from my shelter.
nicadimus wrote:Would love to plan a backpacking trip from the west side of the island to the east... 5-6 days?
Welcome to the forum and I'm know you'll get plenty of suggestions. 5-6 days is probably fairly typical for an end to end trip and plenty of time for experienced backpackers. But I'd consider a shorter distance with shorter days and a layover or two. Or if you have the time, add a couple days.
As an experienced paddler, but relatively inexperienced backpacker, we planned a McCargoe Cove to Windigo 5 night trip last summer. Although it was cut short by an injury and a boat ride out of Todd Harbor, I might suggest that trip--max 8 mile days and a layover or a night at Windigo. I also want to do the Feldtmann Loop, and if that's not enough you can throw in Huginnin Cove (beautiful). There's plenty of options on the east end too, but more folks, especially at that time of year (although it's all relative). Have fun planning!
OK...I'm thinking due to lack of experience(me and my fellow backpackians)...a more conservative venture may be in order for our first time? Last thing I want is to be exhausted/overwhelmed out there on the trail....
I'm thinking starting at Rock Harbor...4/5 days of backpacking..loop back around and spend the last night at the lodge in Rock Harbor...rest/reflection..and a good burger/beer
I absolutely want to hit up Moskey Basin, Daisy farm, Lake Ritchie and east/west Chickenbone....I would LOVE to kind of have Moskey Basin as a "base camp" for 2 nights and do some day hiking? Thoughts? suggestions?
Sorry for being so clueless...I'm super excited about experiencing the beauty and uniqueness of this island!!! This will be our first major backpacking excursion...I've been reading up on the forums...and getting lots of info
Questions, where can I get a really great map, which ferry is recomended for getting to Rock Harbor? Should we spend our first night there before heading out? How far in advanced should we make reservations for the ferry....Ideally I would like to go in august but due to scheduling conflicts we may have to go in June? Pros..cons?
Another thought...we are coming from Minneapolis MN...so as much as I want to make the East side of the island adventure work the most...it might be more probable and save days of travel time by exploring the west side of the island since it's a shorter drive to Grand Portage and a shorter ferry ride....
nicadimus wrote:Last thing I want is to be exhausted/overwhelmed out there on the trail....
Exactly!
which ferry is recomended for getting to Rock Harbor?
Everyone has their preference. The Voyageur II out of G.P. circles the island in 2 days and provides more route options since you don't have to start and end at R.H. The Queen IV out of Copper Harbor is the quickest trip to R.H. and travels the most days. The Ranger II is the largest and most comfortable. I have taken the VII most often because of the flexibility.
How far in advanced should we make reservations for the ferry
I'd say 2-3 months to be safe, but no one can really say what days they'll be full. July/Aug are the busiest months.
Ideally I would like to go in august but due to scheduling conflicts we may have to go in June?
Less people, cooler, more potential for black flies.
Another thought...we are coming from Minneapolis MN...so as much as I want to make the East side of the island adventure work the most...it might be more probable and save days of travel time by exploring the west side of the island since it's a shorter drive to Grand Portage and a shorter ferry ride....
You can save a few hrs on the boat, but in my opinion not enough difference to drive your decision. If the east end has the most appeal, I'd go for it--and save the west side the next time (you'll be back).
To do the east end my personal trip would be to take the Voyageur II to McCargoe Cove (it gets there early afternoon), then work my way back to Rock Harbor. Avoids backtracking and would be relatively leisurely with time to explore. First night at McCargoe, with an afternoon/evening hike to mines. Then Richie or W Chickenbone, Moskey, Daisy Farm, and R.H. or something like that. In any case, skip East Chickenbone as it regarded as the least desirable campground on the island. There's really no bad choice however, so long as you stay within your group's limits (thinking 12 yr old).
Remove the "probably" from Tampico's response ! I do like to encourage folks to order from http://irkpa.org (Isle Royale & Keweenaw Parks Association), however, since the proceeds benefit the park in some way and cost is the same. I imagine you can find it in most outdoors stores around there too (not so much in N.C.). Wherever you get it, it's the one to get.
. Being in MPLS, it will be advantageous to take the voyageur out of grand portage, because u will have the flexibility of getting off and back on the boat at various locations as the VII circumnavigates the island in a clockwise direction, and its nice to be able to do that without relying on a boat taxi. Taking the VII opens up all sorts of itinerary possibilities. Here is one:
Set sail on a Monday AM -7:30AM, disembark at mccargoe cove (1:30pm?). Camp itinerary: W. Chickenbone [2](day hike to Mt Siskiwit, going west on the greenstone ridge trail) - Daisy Farm [1@shelter](take the Greenstone Ridge trail to get to Daisy Farm] - Moskey Basin[2@shelter](get an early start to head to Moskey) - Chippewa Harbor [1]. Voyageur II will pick u up at the chippewa harbor boat dock on sunday 9 AM. Alternatively, u could sail on a Saturday and return Thursday, but that will short u one nite.
If there is a shelter available when u get to mccargoe cove, and u feel like taking it easy on your first day, u could stay there your first nite. It does have a community fire ring, and the only other opportunity u will have for a campfire will be at chippewa harbor on your last night in the park. It is a 3 mile hike to West Chickenbone, which is a fairly easy trail. Be prepared for mosquitoes at W. CBone [long pants/ long sleeves/headnet(keep on hand)/hooded jacket or windbreaker of some kind-to protect your neck and ears, and force them in front of your face where u stand a fighting chance].
Bring some comfy but lightweight sandles (flipflops only if u have really strong ankles) to kick around in at camp. Be wary of proper ankle support even around camp, as terrain and rocky ground can be tricky.
Be sure to check out the VII's refund policy. In 2012, u got an 85% refund if u gave a full 14 days notice of cancellation. Less than 14 days notice means zero refund. It is definitely a great boat ride, and enables u to see the island's shoreline. Another bonus is that the VII is rarely delayed on account of weather or lake conditions, though u may want to bring some dramamine or eat only a very light breakfast, just in case. Free coffee.
Finally, keep in mind that chippewa harbor is a great spot to spend multiple nights (should u decide to stay only 1 nite at W. CB), but (as a backpacker) i would do 2 nites at moskey if u only have 3 nites left at the end of your trip.
Thank you GREATLY for all your suggestions!!! I'm keeping notes of everything!!!
I have plenty more questions for you experienced ones out there...
I can't decide what time of year to shoot for.....my main motivation is avoiding crowds and hopefully seeing wildlife(at least best chance of hearing a wolf )I'm thinking June might be the best option that works for our schedule...where can I find info on what the general weather/temp is like at the Isle in June? I've heard the flies can be bad around June....and that generally Wolves/Moose aren't as active? Also, if there is a good chance it WILL rain more in June....not fun :s I know there's always that risk but if there is a HUGE chance that it will most defiently be wilder weather in June...I would rather stack the odds in our favor and not go in June...
Sounds like the fall would be the best bet...scheduling might prevent this from happening.....also, I'm confused about the date restrictions for campsites/transportation once it gets past the first week in Sept? What would be my best bet for a trip out of Grand Portage in mid September? Suggestions?
I also am hoping to gain some info about backcountry exploring and camping....since I would like to be in solitude as much as possible...I've been looking into the zone's ect...but also having a hard time finding any first hand suggestions...
This is what I've settled on as a LOOSE itinerary:
Day(Sunday) 1: Drive up to Grand Portage...stay overnight
Day 2: (monday)Voyageur II...to McCargoe Cove (do they stop at Windigo to pick up permits?) Stay overnight at McCargoe with a day hike to the Mines if possible..
Day 2: Hike to West Chickenbone...set up camp..are there any good day hikes from there? Or backcountry areas to explore?
Day 3:Hike to Moskey Bay...set up camp...day hike to Daisy Farm(this is low on my importance list as I know it's rather populated but might be a chance of seeing some wildlife there)...OR backcountry hike south of Moskey bay...seems like there is an assortment of streams/lakes back there...I've also been tossing around the idea of just backpacking in that area and setting up camp somewhere...but haven't been able to gain enough knowledge about that area...or if it's a good idea...Then would head to Chippewa harbor via back country..maybe spend a night at the Lake Mason site first? Then Chippewa Harbor...then maybe pop over to Lake Whittlesey for a night?
Day 4: stay at Moskey bay another night...day hike options?
Day 5: Lake Ritchie: Day hike around the lake? How do you access that camp site on the mid Northern portion of the lake? Is backcountry camping permitted anywhere else on Lake Ritchie?
Day 6: Head down to Chippewa Harbor...either camp here, or head to Lake Whittlesey and camp..
nicadimus wrote:.....my main motivation is avoiding crowds and hopefully seeing wildlife(at least best chance of hearing a wolf )I'm thinking June might be the best option that works for our schedule...where can I find info on what the general weather/temp is like at the Isle in June? I've heard the flies can be bad around June....and that generally Wolves/Moose aren't as active? Also, if there is a good chance it WILL rain more in June....not fun :s I know there's always that risk but if there is a HUGE chance that it will most defiently be wilder weather in June...I would rather stack the odds in our favor and not go in June...
Average weather temps can be found at: http://www.isle.royale.national-park.com/weather.htm
Moose will become less active (from a feeding perspective) when it's warmer, but sometimes that means they just hang out in the lakes. They'll still move about, and so will the wolves. Flies are totally random, and locality based. You may find none at McCargoe, to find Chickenbone swarming, and then up on the Greenstone clear again. I've found it best to not worry about them, and enjoy the long days that June can provide. The weather tends to be 'more stable' in June than the fall, at least in terms of 'big' storms. The Voyageur starts to require alternate drop locations, and won't schedule pickups for the North side of the Isle after a certain point in the fall.
Another thing I'll note is that "crowds" are very relative on Isle Royale. Crowded to an IR hiker might mean seeing three people on the trail. Since it's your first time on the Island, and you're bringing a few others, I'll urge strong caution against backcountry travel. It's not a walk in the woods, and many places will put you at <1 mph speeds, with difficult navigation. It's a swampy, rocky, tree fallen place. The regular trails on IR could be considered tough enough for many, and no need to make it any harder!
First, want the best chance to see a moose? Go hang out in Rock Harbor or Windigo the first couple weeks of June. Seriously. The cows have been tending to bring the calves into the more human populated areas for protection. Not many pleasure boaters have arrived just yet, so RH is 'relatively' quiet.
Date restrictions: The NPS has consecutive night stay limits from Memorial Day - Labor Day (or thereabout.) The "Busy" season. Again, highly relative. I've been at Daisy Farm (the largest campsite, with around 20 shelters) in mid-June, and had it to myself. The night before? Nearly full. Random. Even then, the way the camp is situated and how sites are located, unless someone is not practicing the 'butt bounce' with the doors and letting them slam, you won't know how many people are even really there.
Ferry: The schedule for 2013 should be approved soon, but GPIR traditionally hasn't run the Sea Hunter after Labor Day. Also, due to reduced campers, the Voyageur II shifts it's schedule accordingly as fall move in, with less inter-island days, and a day-trips to Windigo added on weekends. No matter where you are going on the ferry, it will always stop at Windigo first, where all campers will disembark, receive the Leave-No-Trace talk and rules, and file their planned itinerary. You will be issued your permit at Windigo, and hop back on the boat. (They know how many people are going on, and so will 'wait' for you, while the NPS does it's job. They've done this many, many times before...)
Chickenbone Dayhike: Hiking the 'loop' around Chickenbone is an excellent way to keep the legs moving. Gives you a chance to stop by East Chickenbone, and discover for yourself why many consider it the least favorite of overnight sites. That or hike up to the Greenstone, head West, and head up the hill for about 2?miles. You will come to some nice views.
Moskey - Don't forget to hang out around the dock. On two separate trips, I've been able to watch otters play around and frolicking in the bay. A dayhike to Daisy wouldn't be out of the question, and will put you on a far different trail type than you would have been on before that. Very basaltic, rocky ups and downs.
From what I've seen, much of the land South of Moskey is pretty marshy, like waist-deep muck in places. If you stick to the West and loop around, you might get to Mason, but that's kinda what the trail does, anyway...
Ritchie - The campsite on the mid-North portion of the lake is considered a canoe site, and is not intended for backpackers.
Day 6 - If the Voyageur II is picking you up on Day 7, then your night prior should be AT Chippewa or very near. The boat arrives at 9:00am CDT.
It's been said by many (including the NPS) that most people over-estimate their hiking ability. I've been on the Isle over a dozen times and have hit all the trails, and I still do it as I spend my winter dreaming of the next trip, thinking how much I might be able to do in one day. The reality, of course, hurts. Hurts our knees, our backs, our feet, and our egos. 'Tis better to spend your first trip marveling at the many, many, many amazing things you may see 'on trail' then to try to go off and seek something that might have been on the trail the entire time. (You DO know the Moose and wolves USE the hiking trails, right? It's the easy way for them, too!) Isle Royale is the most revisited National Park, and I think you are going to find out why. Given you live in the Twin Cities, it's actually relatively easy to go back. (In talks I've given on Isle Royale, I often say that I think figuring out how to get there/logistics is the number one thing that stops people in the first place.) Once you are hooked, you'll be more informed and prepared for the second trip...
thinking end of August?
! I do like to encourage folks to order from 